In the last article we learned how to recognize the key elements of a gothic cathedral, but I couldn’t just leave it at that, we have to apply the knowledge, don’t we? Remember the picture of Saint Denis holding his head?
Since the gothic style started in France, we must talk about the most representative of gothic cathedrals in this country.
We’ll do just that in this article and the next so that you can include them in your next visit!
First we’ll explore a bit of the ideas behind gothic and then we’ll visit each cathedral one by one.
I am always fascinated and in awe of sacred places and how people have make the best efforts to provide these spaces with the best architectural design and the most lavish decorations.
Striving for the beauty of these spaces to either please their divinity or become a vehicle for introspection and meditation of the worshippers.
The beginnings of the gothic cathedral
As explained last time, gothic was a stylistic movement that aimed to bring more light and more airiness to buildings, opening up the space and lifting the ceiling to the heavens.
With more power and more money coming into the big cities, patrons offered the necessary funding for the numerous building campaigns that some of these churches underwent.
And that’s the first thing you need to understand, is that some of these churches were not built in one go, but rather in different times, which affects how much gothic elements they ended up having.
We’ll start with the Basilica of Saint Dennis, here we go!
Basilica Cathedral of Saint Denis
Built in the early gothic style, the Basilique Cathédrale de Saint-Denis is said to be the first gothic masterpiece, though not all of it could be construed as gothic per se.
A brief history of Saint Denis
Saint Denis was a bishop sent by Pope Fabian to spread the word of Christianism in France in the 3rd century AD.
Because of his activities, Saint Denis was decapitated by the Romans at the top of the hill of Montmartre between the years 250 and 270 AD.
Legend has it that the corpse of Denis picked up his head and walked over to the current site of the basilica, to mark the spot where he was to be buried.
He became the patron saint of France and his statue can be seen in the façade of Notre Dame Cathedral, as I showed you in the past article.
Building campaigns in Saint Denis Cathedral
A small chapel was built on the spot and it became a pilgrimage site.
In the 6th century, Dagobert I, the king of the Franks created the Abbey of Saint Denis, a Benedictine monastery.
In 750 AD a campaign to build a basilica was started under Charlemagne who was present at the time of its consecration in 775 AD. Later in the 9th century more renovations were made.
In 1135 the then appointed Abbot Suger friend and confidant of French kings and Abbot of St Denis begun the most famous building campaigns which introduced the gothic elements we see today.
The first phase (1135-1140) dealt with the west façade and the porch, while the second phase (1140-1144) dealt with adding a bigger choir and its radiating chapels.
The façade incorporates some elements of gothic, though not necessarily in a unified program.
But the choir certainly is the masterpiece that Abbot Suger intended to create.
Abbot Suger
Abbot Suger is actually quite famous for being one of the pioneers of the gothic and justifying the major expense of his building campaigns by attributing them to divine calling and the advice of the priests.
His rationale was that the Carolingian church was inadequate to hold the pilgrims and that the beauty of the light through the stained glass windows, the decorations and the lavish ecclesiastical objects helped to transport him to a higher spiritual state through meditating on them.
He was actually very keen in being remembered for posterity and he had himself depicted with inscriptions above his head on both of the windows at the axial chapel of the Virgin, behind the choir.
Imagine, nearly 1000 years ago, this Abbot stood on this very spot, contemplating his image on the window, seeing his vision realized!
Features of Saint Denis
The façade originally had two towers, but the tower on the left was struck by lightning in the 19th century and had to be removed.
Go behind the choir to stroll through the ambulatory and see the magnificent vaulted ceilings and stained glass windows.
Saint Dennis as a whole doesn’t boast the unity and harmoniousness of the gothic style that we’d see later on in other cathedrals, but it is very interesting to see how the romanesque and the gothic blend together.
Saint Denis is known as the Cathedral Royale because it houses the remains of nearly every French king and since the 10th century until the French Revolution in the 18th century.
A visit to the crypt is a must to see the different tombs of the royals, most notably those of King Louis XVI and his wife Marie Antoinette of Austria.
Highlights
- The two figures of Abbot Suger on the stained glass windows of the axial chapel, the one on the left in the scene of the Annunciation wearing simple Benedictine robes and the one on the right offering a stained glass window, dressed in ceremonial robes.
- The rosette window above the porch of the cathedral.
- The vaulting in the ceiling of the ambulatory.
- The statues of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.
- The tomb of Catherine de’ Medici.
- The cenotaphs of the Bourbon rulers, especially Louis XIV.
- The heart of Louis XVII, the son of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette who died in prison at the age of ten.
- The tombs of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.
- The archaeological crypt.
Practicalities
The Basilica of Saint Denis is located to the north of Paris, outside of the city. You need to take the metro (Line 13, Basilique de Saint-Denis stop) to get there which can take 30 to 45 minutes with walking time.
The official Basilique Cathédrale de Saint-Denis website is promoting a “game of observation” contest that will end on October 5th, 2013 with prizes for 70 participants.
Visitors to the Basilica can use their digital cameras, smart phones or tablets to enter the game which includes a walkthrough the crypt, the choir and the different tombs. Click here for the contest rules.
Beware that unlike many Catholic Roman churches, Saint Denis is not open at the crack of dawn.
Opening times for visitors to the non-worship area are 1 April to 30 September : 10 am to 6:15 pm, Sundays 12 to 6:15 pm. 1 October to 31 March: 10 am to 5 pm, Sundays 12 to 5:15 pm. Fee: €7.50
Beware that the Basilica of Saint Denis is a functioning church (as well as a national monument), so be respectful of the masses and religious events that may be going on.
Here’s more practical information.
Learn about the guided tour, audioguide and self-guided tours.
Learn everything there is to know about Abbot Suger, in this Metropolitan Museum of Art (in New York) free publication.
Saint Denis is truly one of those not-to-miss spots in Paris from two very important views: the beginning of gothic architecture as a stylistic movement and the burial place of many of France’s monarchs.
Have you been to Saint Denis before? Did you know that even though it’s considered a masterpiece of the gothic style, it’s not entirely gothic?
What do you think of the architecture of this amazing cathedral?
Share your comments in the field below or join the conversation in Facebook!
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I am reading Pillars of the Earth and this article was most interesting.
Very nice. Thanks for the info!
Great article. Amazing detail. I have read many blogs but rarely does the write include a site map and floor plan. It was like I was there myself (almost)!.
Thanks, Sandra! Have you beed there before?